Method of treating fabrics and resulting product



F. H. RUSSELL May 3, 1949.

METHOD OF TREATING FABRICS AND RESULTING PRODUCT Filed March 6, 1947 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 WN N Inventor; Mnl' Hussell @y WN WN A ts.

May 3, 1949. F.v H. RUSSELL 2,469,245

METHOD OF TREATING FABRICS AND RESULTING PRODUCT,

Filed March 6, 1947 s Vsrua rs-smet 2 In verz tor;

anfZ/i'ussell 33M Mm.

Atzs.

May 3, 194.9. F. H. RUSSELL 2,469,245

METHOD OF TRBATING FABRICS AND RESULTING PRODUCT Filed March 6, 1947 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 May 3, 1949. F. H. RUSSELL 2,469,245

METHOD OF TREATING FABRICS AND RESULTING PRODUCT Filed March 6, 1947 5 Sheets-Sheet 4 www a3 May 3, 1949. F. H. RUSSELL 2,469,245

METHOD 0F TREATING FABRICS AND RESULTING PRODUCT Filed March 6, 1947 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 [73 v6?? 07; frank H asseZZ Wl 5MM if/www y Anja.

Patented May 3,1949

RESULTING PRODUCT Frank H. Russell, Needham, Mass.,

Peppcrell Manufacturing Company,

assignor to Boston.

Mass., a corporation of Massachusetts Application March 6, 1947, Serial No. 732,841

14 Claims. (Cl. 28-74) This invention relates to a method of prepar-ving and treating napped woven fabrics, to develop the structure and surface of the same and more especially a leather-like feel and finish, and 'to the resulting products.

. of a suitable fabric is a prerequisite and that if this is properly done and a supplementary treatment appliedl thereto, a very desirable and satisfactory procedure may be carried out and an improved product having, for example, a truly leather-like structure, both in finish and feel, can be made.

It is found that, as the original material to be used, a woven napped fabric is especially adaptable for the purpose, in which the backing of warp and filling threads is firmly woven and the nap fibers firmly held thereon. The nap fibers may be in random arrangement but they must be sufficiently dense to cover and embed the woven strands of the backing. They should also be preliminarily prepared with their free ends projecting outwardly from the warp and filling threads on one or both sides of the backing. The fibers of the na-p are individually fine and freely flexible. They must also be predominantly of a sufficient length to project outwardly from the woven backing and then to permit of each fiber being turned in or bent backwardly upon itself toward the woven backing, and also to permit the free end, after being thus bent back, to be interlocked with or beneath other fibers adjacent to it. On the other hand, there should be relatively few, if any, fibers of excessive lengths to project beyond such general average lengths of the nap and thus to overlie the same outwardly of the general average nap surface, even though the f-ree ends of such fibers should be interlocked with the other fibers. Likewise there should not be a large proportion of nap fibers which are too short to be thus bent over and engage the nap fibers adjacent thereto.

In accordance with the present invention it is found that fibers of suitable lengths as above described may, if very fine and soft or flexible, be made to project outwardly from their engagement with the woven backing, then severally to be bent backwardly toward the backing, over and between and under nap fibers adjacent to them,

and their free ends engaged in interlocking relationship with such other adjacent fibers to form a firm uniform outer nap surface made up of the outwardly bent portions of the arched fibers or loop portions thereof. It is characteristic of such arched fibers or loops that one end of each is firmly held, by the warp or filling of the backing, since it is formed from a, part of the original threads of the fabric or backing, while the other end, which is free, tapered and flexible is bent downwardly under other nap fibers and engaged and held by its interlocking arrangement therewith.

Some long, some coarse and even some stiff fibers may similarly project from their engagement with the woven backing and may in some instances be bent over so as to engage, at their free ends, with other fibers which will hold them in position. But in general the predominant proportion oi' the fibers should be relatively of equal lengths, fine and soft, and from about onehalf as long as the general average thickness of' the final nap as a lower limit to about twice as long as the general average thickness of the original nap, or longer. Thus, they might vary from about 1/s4 inch to about 1;/8 inch long, or longer. But longer fibers may also be employed satisfactorily, such as fine fibers which are one quarter inch to one inch in length or even longer. Fibers which are too long may Ibe sheared ofi or the lengths of. fibers of the entire nap may be sheared down if necessary. But the remaining fibers, when of the proper lengths, should not be of sumcient stiffness to prevent them from being drawn out, bent down or back upon themselves, and one another, or from interlocking at their free ends with or beneath other fibers which are closely adjacent to them, as above described.

With napped fabrics of this type, having a nap within the range of characteristics stated, it is found that the projecting fibers may be first advantageously brushed out parallel to each other and away from the backing and then given a reverse direction from that of projecting and protruding entirely outwardly to that of pro- `iectlng first outwardly from the woveny backing and then curving backwardly toward the woven backing and having their free ends passed beneath and interlocked with other adjacent fibers. In this 'way the reversed nap will have a thickness equal to about one-half of the average or predominant length of the nap fibers (or of the original upstandlng nap) or less. I

Preferably an irregularly napped fabric or one having fibers of excessive or unequal lengths will be sheared wa suitable general average thickness,

be bent over farther and will the more its upper portion is This bending over and down of the bers, or

turning in of the nap, is preferthe napped cloth,

reversing, or ably done in one direction ofl and usually in the warp direction. of the nap are therefore rst combed out, as by a rapidly eected napping operation, in one direction, more or less parallel to each other and away from the cloth. The cloth is next 4passed closer up to and more rmly against the teeth of a rapidly rotated napper or felter roll, the sharp ends of the teeth thereon moving progressively inwardly relative to the cloth. The parallel bers are rst bent over thereby and then more or less forced inwardly of the nap surface and toward the cloth backing. As the napped surface of the cloth passes tangent to the teeth of the felter and the latter press downwardly or inwardly against the bers. therefore, they turn in and carry the free ends of the thus longitudinally bent bers of the nap downwardly through, between and under each other (and also among The bers,

cent bers, 4or both. Adjacent-shorter bers or` the fastened ends of such adiacent bers will not be moved, or not moved so much by these right and left deviations, or they will tend to spring back into their former position after the tooth has passed them, due to their greater resiliency. Hence the back and forth movement of the free end (which is greater the greater the length of the'free ber) tends to turn it inwardly and to force it down, in, and under such adjacent-bers. and after a number of such back and forth movements among theadjacent bers, to entangle their freeends with one another, so as to remain permanently secured and eifectively locked in such reversed position. The interlocking e'ect upon the bers may be somewhat promoted by purposely oscillating the teeth transversely of their primary direction of travel or by transverse movement of the cloth past them. The interlocking of the napped bers may also be increased to the degree desired, by repeating the felting action, or increasing the tension and closeness of approach of the teeth toward the backing of the the shorter bers of the nap if present) toward v and even against or into the woven backing ofv the fabric. By such felting action the teeth of the felting roll not only straighten out, bend over. and then down, and turn in the free ends of the nap bers, but tuck the free ends of the nap bers laterally under each other (or under other adjacent shorter bers if present) or even into the warp and woof of the backing. Each nap ber thus substantially overlies and retains or interlocks with the bent over and downwardly projecting free ends of another or other nap bers and holds them, while it is in turn heldin auch reversed position at its free end by engagement with other bers.

This lateral interlocking effect of the brushing action of the teeth upon the nap bers of the cloth is assured by the variations of the angle or position in which successive teeth of the rotated felting roll follow in the trace of 'one another and the consequent lateral back and forth displacing action which they have upon the individual nap bers of the fabric. Successive teeth of the felting roll might pass in the same direction (and accurately in the trace of each other) and thus comb out the nap bers in generally .parallel positions, leaving the ber ends loose.

But as they are forced more closely towardthe backing of the napped fabric (as the latter is passed into tangential contact `and then under tension against and past the teeth) the vnap bers are-forced downwardly amongst and be.- tween one another. Moreover, if (as is the case here) in the successive action of the teeth, one tooth deviates .to the right and the. next succeeding tooth deviates to the left, they will tend to thrust the free end of each of the napped bers which they contact back and forth, slightly to the right and slightly to the left. Thus the free end of each inturned ber is interlaced and inter-` locked with the xed ends or free endsof adjacloth. The density and closeness of interlocking of the napped bers may be thereby increased and controlled.

This action of napping and felting the nap bers down against the backing is surprisingly effectivein turning inwardly the longer bers and.

loose free ends of the napped surface and securing them in such reversed position. A few loose, or freely extending bers may be observed upon close scrutiny, but they are conspicuous because of their sparse occurrence and they do not project so far from the backing as previously, even when they do appear.

A characteristic of the brous nap, as thus turned in or reversed, is that each nap ber is secured to the cloth at one end, while the other end is free from positive attachment. Both the attached end and the free end of each ber is, however, close to the backing layer, the intermediate or body portion of the ber forming a loop, the outer extremity of the loop forming the outer, effective, 4nap surface of the cloth. These loop portions of each individual nap ber thus stand away from the backing. While the free end of each ber is interlocked by intertangling engagement with others near the backing layer, the loop portions stand outward and apart, are somewhat stiffer, assume an independent spaced position parallel to the backing, and constitute the outer nap surface, of closely packed loop por'- tions, parallel thereto.

These unique characteristics are signicant and important. In subsequent treatments of such napped surfaces, as with liquids for example, the bers do not clot together, nor prevent uniform distribution of the liquid thereover or therein.

But they do restrain, in rapidly increasing degree, the progressive penetration of liquids into such' a' lows or openings, or irregularly projecting bers extending beyond the 'nap surface as a Whole.

On the other hand, as a liquid penetrates through the dense outer nap surface formed of the bent portions or loops, and into the layer of inturned ends of the nap bers, it will rst form a sub- =stantially continuous lm and then, upon further penetration, encounter the converging and hence closer relationship of the fibers as their, ends approach the zone of interlocking engagement with each other, in which they may of course be in crossing or even underlying contact with respect ing and any liquid that may be applied to the outer nap surface, and will also tend to resist the complete or rapid penetration of such liquid to or toward the backing layer. .This resistance is especially enhanced if the treating liquid is applied in a continuous uniform lm, and even more so if it is viscous, of high surface tension, or of high density, but also if it is in the form of dispersions, as in the case of emulsions or colloidal suspensions. Such resistance to penetration of liquids into the nap surface is still furthe; enhanced if the backing is made impervious to air and hence prevents the escape of air therethrough. This may be effected simply by wetting the backing preliminarily or at the same time that the liquid coating is applied to the nap surface.

The reversed napped surface, with its nap fibers thus turned in and retained in their inturned position, may be used and is especially adapted for the purposes of the present invention in this condition. But it may be further advanced by pressing the reversed nap down against the backing. This may be done in any convenient and appropriate way, as by calendering. The inturned ber ends are thus driven in toward the backing more firmly and interlocked more securely with each other and with the fixed ends of adjacent nap fibers. The bent portions of the nap fibers are also more sharply bent thereby and this conformation is rendered more permanent against subsequent displacement or straightening out. The reversed nap as a whole is also condensed somewhat and made correspondingly slightly thinner. Moistening or heating of the fabric before calendering may also enhance the calendering effect and especially the rmer engagement of the reversed, free ends of the fibers with others which are thus softened and then stiil'ened.

The reversed napped'lber formation above described is not unlike that of athlcket of birch trees the tops of which have been bent'over to the ground by an ice storm, whereupon the upper branches become permanently interlocked with one another and with lower branches, so that they can not' rise again from such bent condition, and remain in this reversed, interlocked position permanently. This condition may be further enhanced and to a more uniform degree (in both cases) by pressing them all down from above: as by a heavy fall of snow upon the bent down trees, or by the calendering or ironing operation, in the case of the reversed nap fibers.

If the cloth is to be handled, stored, or otherwise manipulated at this stage or prior to further treatment, it may be advisable (but frequently not necessary) to x the nap even more denitely in this condition. This may be done by uniformly wetting it with a preferably dilute, thin, transparent solution of adhesive, and then drying. This is an effective expedient to preserve the cloth in this condition and may be applied in addition to or-in place of calendering, without interferlng with later treatments and properties to be applied.

With or without such application of adhesive. the cloth as above prepared, having its nap laid down and effectively held in this position by interlocking, for the development of a leather-like feel and finish, is next treated with a dispersion of suitable, resinous materials. These may be in solution or in the form of suspensions of finely divided particles, but in a condition susceptible to subsequent developmentsuch as of solidification, hardening, adhesion, insolubility and like properties-or modified by other agents such as solubleAor insoluble, volatile or non-volatile solvents, plasticizers, fillers, dyes, pigments, etc., which may be added thereto. After such treatment, the volatile vehicle or solvent, etc. may be removed or expelled, and the thus treated cloth dried and otherwise finished, in such further ways as may be desired. It is characterized by acquiring the properties of the treating materials,

such as water-repellency or water-proofness, physical strength and chemical inertness. But 1n addition, the composite eiTects of the napped surface and of the treating material thereon, and the spaced relationship of such surface to the backing, are to give the resulting products the characteristic surface feel and structural consistency of natural leather. Y

While oth-er compositions and treatments may be applied to the inturned nap surface as thus prepared, for the yspecii'lc purpose of obtaining a eather-like feel and consistency, it iSv-found that polyvinyl esters of aliphatic acids per se and/or condensed with aliphatic aldehydes are as a class specifically suitable, and especially such compounds in which the ester is partially polymerized with the aldehyde) and subsequently hydrolyzed and condensed with more aldehyde and heat or in which the ester is rst hydrolyzed and then condensed with the aldehyde, in the presence of an acid catalyst, as disclosed in United States reissue Patent 20,430 to George O. Morrison, Frederick W. Skirrow and Kenneth G. Blaikie, June 29, 1937, of original Patent 2 036,092, dated March 31, 1936, and in United States Patent 1,725,362, dated August 20, 1929, referred to therein.

A typical instance of carrying out the invention in actual practice may be illustrated with a fabric composed of firmly twisted warp threads and filling threads of loosely twisted yarn, for example. Such a fabric, upon being napped, may present on one `or both sides of the cloth a nap in which the fibers rst project freely in all directions away from the woven backing, in a dense mat of considerable thickness, and which may be prepared and subsequently treated, in accordance with the present invention, with the results above described. v

Suitable apparatus for carrying out the process of the invention is illustrated in the accompanyingr drawings and photographically reproduced micrographs of a suitable textile material as Drepared and in the several stages of treatment by the present invention, are presented herewith, in which:

Fig. 1 (comprising 1a and its continuation lb) is a more or less diagrammatic illustration of apparatus suitablev for carrying out the present invention, comprising in sequence a roll of woven textile fabric, a napping machine, felting machine (with or without an applicator for the application of adhesive, dye or the like, followed by drying drums, as indicated in dotted lines) followed by a calender, a coating device, drying drums, a roll breaker and a final take-up roll for the treated cloth;

Fig. 2 is an enlarged detail of one of the napper rolls;

Fig. 3 is an enlarged detail, in cross-sectional elevation, `of card clothing containing napper teeth, showing their characteristic shape and manner of mounting the same;

Fig. 4 is an enlarged detail, in plan, of the card clothing containing the napper teeth, showing the arrangement of the same, with a corner portion broken away;

Fig. 5 is an enlarged detail showing a pair of the spiral rolls of the breaker;

Fig. 6 is a photographic view of the surface of a double-napped fabric, suitable for use in accordance with the present invention, the upper portion being of one side and the lower portion being of the other (face) side. The white yarn in the lower corner of the lower portion indicates the face side of the yarn and the direction o f this yarn is parallel to the direction of the warp threads therein;

Fig. 7 is a similar view of the napped fabric` after being felted as above described, in accordance with the present invention, thereby to brush out the fibers in one direction (that of the warp threads indicated as in Fig. 6) and also to turn in and tuck the loose ends of the nap fibers under the adjacent fibers and interlock them with each other, so that free loose ends no longer appear to any substantial degree; v

Fig. 8 is a view of the napped fabric similar to Figs. 6 and 7, after felting and calendering, thus still further interengaging and interlocking the free ends of the nap ilbers, in their relationvships with respect to each other and to the backing;

Fig. 9 is a similar view of the napped fabric after felting and then treating with a very dilute solution of starch, whereby the turned in fibers may be additionally secured in this relationship by adhesion;

Fig. l0 is a similar view of the napped fabric after felting, subsequently treating with an aqueous dispersion of a synthetic resin and finally drying and developing the resin thereon;

Fig. 11 contains Venlarged cross sections-A, B, C, D and E of the napped fabrics, shown in Figs. 6 to 10, inclusive, respectively-in the warp direction of the cloth; and

Fig. 12 contains enlarged cross sections-A, B, C, D and E of the napped fabrics, shown in Figs.

6 to l0, inclusive, respectively-in the direction of the filling threads of the cloth.

In a representative example of carrying out the invention, the fabric to be used is preferably in the form of a roll I (Fig. 1) of the desired width and weight, and of suitable texture for napping. For example, it may be of cotton and woven with a firm warp thread and a loosely twisted filling thread or yarn of suiilciently long fibers to provide napped fibers of the required length, flexibility and firmness.

The fabric is passed from the roll I over guide rolls or bars 2, 3, between tension rolls I, 5 guide roll 6 over a steam drum 1, and thence beneath 8 the guide roll l, leading to the .napper device indicated generally at 9.

The napper comprises a large roller I0 which is rotated as indicated by the large arrow thereon in the direction of travel of the cloth, which is indicated by the upper arrow. Throughout the outer periphery of the napper roller or drum III there are mounted a series of nappery rolls II, I2 which are positively rotated and driven in alternately opposite directions, as indicated by the small arrows on each. and at a high rate of speed. The drum IIl is also rotated at a somewhat higher rate of speed than the speed at which the fabric passes over it, in direct contact with the series of napper rolls.

The construction of each of the small napper rolls II, I2 is preferably as indicated in Figs. 2, 3 and 4, comprising an axle I3 upon which the roll is mounted for rotation, and another cylindrical surface I4 upon which a narrow strip of card clothing I5 is helically wound and attached by clamps, or like device, not shown.

The card clothing I5 comprises a backing which is made up of three strips of canvas I6, I1, IB, through which the end portions of each U-shaped wire, forming a pair of card teeth I9, 20 are thrust while the fiat base 2| of the 1U joining the teeth holds them in upright substantially perpendicular vposition.- This is further maintained by intervening layers of adhesive cement 22, 23 between the layers of canvas I6, I1 and I1, I8, respectively, and a thin rubber strip 2l on top of the uppermost canvas strip I6 (through which the card teeth extend). A covering strip of canvas 25 is secured over the flat U-shaped ends 2l of the card teeth by means of the adhesive layer 26.

The card teeth I9, 2li are, as shown, evenly spaced apart, uniformly, in longitudinal rows, lengthwise of the strip, but staggered, transversely ofthe strip at an angle of 30 thereto or 60 to the length of the strip. In this arrangement, there are three teeth in each diagonal transverse row which are accordingly in staggered relationship to each other (both transversely and longitudinally of the strip) while the fourth tooth is the next tooth which is directly opposed thereto, in a longitudinal or rectilinear transverse direction (see Fig. 4).

As the strip of card clothing I5 is helically wound upon the roll I4 these offset relationships peripherally of the roll will be slightly altered. But it will be seen that it is a characteristic of the disposition of the card teeth that upon rotation of the roll II on axis I3 the successive trace of one card tooth with respect to that of another (as it will act upon a given napvber) will vary from tooth to tooth and this variation will be back and forth across the width of the cloth. Each tooth I9, 20 is mounted perpendicularly to the canvas support, but is bent forward at its upper. end 21 in the general direction of its rotation on the napper roll, at an angle of about 45 as shown in Fig. 3 so that its upper half approximately (and the pointed end 28 having a rounded top 29) is presented to the cloth at an angle and in opposition to the same. This is the case whether the napper roll is driven in a direction opposite to the direction of travel of the cloth or in the same direction, because the speed of movement of the napper roll teeth is much greater. For example, the cloth may travel through the apparatus, as shown, at a speed of l5 yards per minute, while the rate of rotation of the card teeth on the napper rolls may be of the order of 300 yards per minute.

In the napper operation the degree of tension under which the cloth is drawn over the napper rolls will control the energy and depth to which the card teeth engage the fabric and hence the napping action. This tends to loosen and teasel some of the filaments (especially of the filling threads in the present instance) away from the body portion. These loosened filaments or fibers, as thus engaged, `are raised up by the napping teeth and drawn out and separated from each other, as shown in Figs. 6, 11A and 12A.

As thus teaseled or napped, each of the nap fibers, while retained in the filling thread, from which it has been teaseled out and napped up, by its base end, also presents a free end. This free end stands up and 'away from the fabric backing. It may be disposed in any random direction, but is characteristically free from and unassocated with the other fibers in any definite way.

The cloth I, as thus napped, vis carried under guide rolls 30, 3I, and over upper guide rolls 32, thence through a pair of tension rolls 33, 34, under guide roll 3 5, over steam drum 36, and under guide roll 3'I to a felting apparatus 38. The felting apparatus 38 is constructed analogous to the napper 9, but in general has fewer rollers and they are all driven in the same direction. It comprises a large roll or drum 39, adapted to be driven in the same direction (as indicated by an arrow) as the direction of the travel of the cloth, which is indicated by thel upper arrow'. A series of felting rolls 4I! are mounted for independent rotation throughout the periphery and may be driven at a speed somewhat lower than the speed of the napper rolls Il, I2 on the napper 9. But the felter rolls 40 are of the same construction as the napper rolls II, I2, the card clothing being mounted thereon, with the teeth disposed in the same direction on all of the rolls (instead of alternately, as on rollers II, I2) and against the direction of the travel of the cloth thereover.

The action of the felter would therefore appear to be the same as the action of the napper. But, on the contrary, instead of drawing out the nap fibers in all directions from the backing of the cloth I, the teeth of the card clothing (which travel at a high speed and opposite to the direction of travel of the cloth) engage substantially all of the napped up fibers and turn them rst outwardly and into parallelism with each other. As the cloth is drawn into closer and firmer contact with and over the succession of rollers 40, the teeth4 thereon penetrate the nap fibers more deeply and carry the free ends of the nap fibers outwardly over each other, then bend them backwardly or inwardly toward the backing and downwardly between` each other toward and even against the warp and filling of the backing fabric itself. These loose, free, inturned fiber ends which are soft, tapering and flexible, in being thus bent, turned in and forced down-between and then under each other (by the back and forth traces and lateral action ofv the successive teeth) become twisted and tangled with each other and with the base portions of adjacent nap fibers, which interlocks them in their thus reversed position.

These characteristics of the fibers are shown in Fig- 7 in which the predominantly parallel lay of the nap fibers is shown and the freedom of the surface from loosely projecting free ends of the nap fibers. It is also obvious thatsuch turning in of the nap bers imparts a denser surface to the nap, and that the nap surface iscomposed of the exposed, bent or looped. portions of the nap fibers, the base and end portions being disposed inwardly thereof and directed toward the backing instead of into the free surface of the nap. (See also Figs. 11B and 12B.)

The degree to which the nap fibers are turned in and the resulting characteristics ofthe cloth obtained may be controlled and determined by the setting of the tension rolls 33, 34. If the cloth is tensioned lightly the bers will be turned and carried down amongst the others, and engaged and interlocked therewith, but the resulting nap coating will be deep or stand up high from the backing, and of relatively open construction. As the tension on the cloth is increased, the nap fibers will be turned in and carried down more rmly amongst each other and against the backing, and the nap coating of nap fibers will be thinner,

. denser and lmel'.

As the cloth comes from the roll 38, it is carried by guide roll 4I and thence over guide (or calender) roll 42.

At this stage the cloth may be directly passed to the pair of calender rolls 43 (Fig. 1B) or it may be given intermediate special treatments as will be described below.

In the direct course of treatment, the cloth I is-calendered by the rolls 43 to such degree as may be desirable. This will rm or x the nap, as shown in Fig. 8 and Figs. 11C and 12C. It is then passed down and beneath the doctor blade 44. In front of the doctor blade and in the depression in the cloth formed thereby, there is provided a pool 45 of uid coating composition, such as a resinous emulsion or suspension of the desired consistency. For example, an aqueous suspension' of polyvinyl esters, prepared as disclosed in the above-mentioned patents, such as 30% polyvinyl but'yral, 40% of a plasticizer, `such as dibutyl phthalate and 30% of water, may be used especially effectively as the coating composition, to form and develop a leather-like feel and finish to the napped surface of the clot Similar aqueous suspensions of polyvinyl acetate ester may also be used, with similar results. As the cloth is thus wetted with the coating composition it acquires a uniform film on its outer face. It is characterized by being wetted uniformly but of resisting penetration between vthe progressively converging fibers as it permeates. The liquid may then be pressed inwardly of the napped fibers (and even to the backing of the fabric if desired) by increasing the pressure of the doctor blade, as the coated cloth passes be- -neath it. The doctor blade thus reduces the top 46 of the coating layer 41, to a smooth plane surface and determines the thickness of the surface coating applied and left thereon.

The coated cloth is then passed over a series of drying drums 48 at such temperature and for such time as may be required to develop and/or dry the resinous coating to the desired degree and/or consistency. It may then be regarded as a finished product. But the consistency of the coating and of the coated fabric may be improved by passing it over the breaker 49. For this purpose the clotch is preferably passed over tensioning rolls 50, 5| and guide roll 52 and thence backwardly and forwardly over a series of alternate breakingrolls 53, 54, conveniently arranged in a loop formation, and thence under offtake guide roll B5, tensioning rolls 58, l1, and to the take up roll 58.

The breaker rolls 53, Il are mounted for independent rotation at high speed on axes 59, 60 and are preferably provided with smooth rounded helices 6i, 62 (Fig. 5) which are in opposite sense to each other if the breaker rolls are driven in the same direction or which may be identical if the alternate breaker rolls are driven in opposite directions to each other. y

The breaking action which is thus eected upon the coated sheet is a mild flexing of both the backing and coating surface, which softens both, independently. This gives the resulting sheet a specially soft. flexible, tough feel and finish, and a full body, which may be attributed to the napped ber zone between the surface coating and the fabric backing. The intermediate fiber zone may be impregnated or left open as desired by appropriate control of the napping, felting and calendering, viscosity of the coating composition, tension of the cloth and pressure of the doctor blade, etc.,'as above described.

The textile material which is treated as above described may be already dyed. On the other hand, grey goods may be used and dyed in the l2 whatever characteristic the treatment and the coating composition render them susceptible,

The treated outer surface or coating thus formed is integrally and firmly joined to the backing or original-fabric@(from which the nap fibers have been teaseled by the napping action) by the aggregate strength of all of the nap fibers which, on account of being turned in or reversed as above described, are substantially doubled in their effectiveness of tensile strength and union with the coating surfaceI and the backingrespectively. The latter effect is enhanced when course of the process by usual dyeing and drying procedures and equipment, after the operation of turning in or reversing the nap fibers, for example, and either before or after calendering. In some cases, the dyeing and drying action may have a tendency to release the interlocking of the inturned nap fibers. In this event, it may be desirable to pass the cloth through the feiting operation a second time, followed by calendering, coating, and breaking, etc., as previously described.

With or without such dyeing operation, howeverI it may be desirable to iix or anchor the turned in or reversed nap fibers before the coating composition is applied thereto, .or before the dyeing operation, or preliminary to both. This may be effected before or after calendering the napped and felted cloth. As indicated in Fig. 1a, in dotted 1ines, ,as an optional part of the apparatus and steps of procedure, the sheet I may pass from guide roll 42 over guide roll 63, thence under an applicator roll 6I which is moistened by contact with roll 65 dipping into a pan 66, containing' a thin, transparent adhesive liquid 61 such as an aqueous solution of starch or the like.

The adhesive applied may be sufficient only to moisten the free ends of the nap, to penetrate it somewhat, or to any particular degree desired, or

to saturate it completely, as required. The cloth is then passed over a series of drying drums 68 and thence through the calender rolls I3, 43, and to the subsequent coating and succeeding operations as above described.

The napped surface, as thus treated, takes on the appearance (before subsequent calendering) as illustrated in Figs. 9, 11D and 12D. The fiber ends may be somewhat releasedby the wetting operation as there shown, but these are effectively laid down in the subsequent calendering step. This tendency may be somewhat offset or prevented by a preliminary calendering before Wetting, and this is also true of both the dyeing operation and the application ofadhesive, as well as of the coating operation itself.

The final, finished product is particularly characterized in that the outer surface of the napped fibers may be treated with numerous treating materials whether by coating or impregnating and to such depth as desired and then developed to an adhesive is applied, vwhich serves more positively to anchor the free fiber ends to each other, to the bases of other nap fibers and to the backing.

The treated and finished nap surface, whether comprising a coating or an impregnation only slightly into the nap fiber surface or to the backing or to an intermediate degree through the intervening mass of transversely disposed fibers between and joining the two outer layers or zones of the finished fabric, may be of such thickness, density of fibers and penetration or freedom from impregnating or embedding material, as desired, and provides a freedom and flexibility and toughness of the surfaces and of the sheet as a whole which is unique vand not heretofore obtained. It closely corresponds in feel, finish, appearance, consistency, toughness and adaptability for use, to natural leather made from hides by tanning, finishing and like operations.

It is to be understood that the present disclosure is given as an example of the application of the invention and that the subject-matter thereof is not to be construed as limited thereby.

I claim:

l. Method of developing the structure and surface of a textile fabric, which 'comprises the steps of raising a nap upon the fabric, as a backing, with the nap fibers projecting outwardly therefrom and substantially parallel to each other. bending the free ends of the raised nap fibers inwardly toward the backing, and in interlocking arrangement with adjacent nap fibers, in such reversed position, treating the nap with a liquid composition, comprising a resin, developing the resinous component of said liquid composition, and subjecting the treated sheetto gradual flexing.

2. Method of developing the structure and surface of a textile fabric, which comprises the steps of raising a nap upon the fabric, as a backing, with the nap fibers projecting outwardly therefrom and substantially parallel to each other, bending the free ends of the raised nap fibers inwardly toward the backing, and in interlocking arrangement with adjacent nap fibers, in such reversed position, and treating the nap with a liquid dispersion of a condensed polyvinyl ester.

3. Method of developing the structure and surface of a textile fabric, which comprises the steps of raising a nap upon the fabric, as a backing, with the nap fibers projecting outwardly therefrom and substantially parallel to each other, bending the free ends of the raised nap fibers inwardly toward the backing, andl in interlocking arrangement with adjacent nap fibers, in such reversed position, and treating the nap with a liquid dispersion of an -aliphatic aldehyde condensation product of a polyvinyl ester.

4. Method of developing the' structure and surface of a textile fabric, which comprises the steps of raising a. nap upon the fabric, as a backing, with the nap fibers projecting outwardly there- 13 from and substantially parallel to each other, bending the free ends of the raised nap bers inwardly toward the backing, and in interlocking arrangement with adjacent nap bers, in such reversed position, and treating the nap with a liquid dispersion of an aliphatic aldehyde con-l densation product of a hydrolyzed polyvinyl ester.

5. Method of developing the structure and surface of a textile fabric, which comprises the steps of raising a nap upon the fabric, as a backing, with the nap fibers projecting outwardly therefrom and substantially parallel to each other, bending the free ends of the raised nap bers inwardly toward the backing, and in interlocking arrangement with adjacent nap bers, in such reversed position, and treating the nap with a liquid dispersion of. a hydrolysis and condensation product of an aliphatic aldehyde and polyvinyl ester.

6. Method of developing the structure and surface of a textile fabric, which comprises the steps of raising a nap upon the fabric, as a backing, with the nap bers projecting outwardly therefrom and substantially parallel to each other, bending the free ends of the raised nap fibers inwardly toward the backing, and in interlocking arrangement with adjacent nap fibers, in such reversed position, and treating the nap with a liquid dispersion of a butyric aldehyde condensation product of a hydrolysed polyvinyl ester.

7. Method of developing the structure and surface of a textile fabric, which comprises the steps of raising a neo upon the fabric, as a backing, with the nap fibers projecting outwardly therefrom and substantially parallel to each other, bending the free ends of the raised nap fibers inwardly toward the backing, and in interlocking arrangement with adjacent nap fibers, in such reversed position, and treating the nap with a liquid dispersion of a hydrolysis and condensation product of a butyric aldehyde and polyvinyl ester.

v-8. A textile fabric characterized by having a backing, a nap thereon, the napped fibers thereof severally projecting outwardly from the backing and their free ends being bent inwardly in interlocking arrangement with adjacent fibers, the bent portions of the nap fibers forming the surface of the nap and containing a coating of a condensed polyvinyl ester.

9. A textile fabric characterized by having a backing. a nap thereon, the napped fibers thereof severally projecting outwardly from the backing and their free ends being bent inwardly in interlocking arrangement with adjacent bers, the bent portions of the nap fibers forming the surface of the nap and containing an impregnation of a condensed polyvinyl ester.

10. A textile fabric characterized by having a backing. a nap thereon, the napped fibers thereof severally projecting outwardly from the backing and their free ends being bent inwardly in interlocking arrangement with adjacent fibers, the bent portions of the nap fibers forming the 14 surface of the nap and containing a dispersion of a condensed polyvinyl ester.

11. A textile fabric characterized by having a backing, a nap thereon, the napped fibers thereof severally projecting outwardly from the backing and their free ends being bent inwardly in interlocking arrangement with adjacent fibers, the bent portions of the nap fibers forming the surface of the nap and containing an aliphatic aldehyde condensation product of a hydrolysed polyvinyl ester.

12. A textile fabric characterized by having a backing, a nap thereon, the napped fibers thereof severally projecting outwardly from the backing and their free ends being bent inwardly in interlocking arrangement with adjacent fibers, the bent portions of the nap fibers forming the surface of the nap and containing an hydrolysis and condensation product of an aliphatic aldehyde and a polyvinyl ester.

13. A textile fabric characterized by having a backing, a nap thereon, the napped fibers thereof severally projecting outwardly from the backing and their free ends being bent inwardly in interlocking arrangement with adjacent fibers, the bent portions of the nap fibers forming the surface of the nap and containing butyric alc' ehyde condensation product of a hydrolysed polyvinyl ester.

14. A textile fabric characterized by having. a,

backing, a nap thereon, the napped fibers thereof severally projecting outwardly from the backing and their free ends being bent inwardly in interlocking arrangement with adjacent bers, the bent portions of the nap bers forming the surface of the nap and containing an hydrolyfis and condensation product of butyric aldehy-ie and a polyvinyl ester.

FRANK H. RUSSI LL.

REFERENCES CITED UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date Re. 20,430 Morrison et al June 29, 1937 172,690 Becker Jan. 25, 1876 931,469 Outerbridge Aug. 17, 1909 2,012,184 Cobb Aug. 20, 1935 2,150,652 Foster Mar. 14, 1939 2,194,860 Martin Mar. 26, 1940 2,278,985 Gessner Apr. '1, 1942 2,340,069 McCarthy Jan. 25, 1944 2,359,591 Staines Oct. 3, 1944 2,392,513 Town Jan. 8, 1946 2,413,931 Starmatoff Jan. 7. 1947 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 41.788 France Apr. 13, 1933 Great Britain Dec. 4, 1936 

